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From clan to clan and village to village the style and colour of Vietnams ethnic minority groups showcase a vibrant and fascinating culture of textile traditions. One of the largest and most diverse of these groups is that of the Hmong. From the sedate indigo garb of the Black Hmong of Sapa to the explosive colour of the Flower Hmong around Lao Cai each has adopted a unique costume and identity. Here are just some of the beautiful Hmong I've encountered on my travels through Northern Vietnam.  Sapa is home to the Black Hmong. Most people that have travelled to Sapa will have encountered these beautiful women with their indigo hemp jackets, skirts and hats. The ubiquitous checked nylon scarfs are an ever present accessory across all the Hmong clans.  if you are in Sapa around the New Year you can see the Black Hmong from around the district celebrate the Spring Festival - where thousands gather in their full traditional costume for a day of traditional games and rituals. Whilst most women wear their tradtional clothing all the time - this festival is an opportunity to also see the men and boys all decked out.  Many of the Black Hmong women around the Lao Cai province can be seen winding hemp fibres as they go about their day.
 The Blue Hmong wear an outfit similar to those worn by the Flower Hmong - with the exception of all the decoration on their skirts and jackets being in blue.  Many of the White Hmong clans stopped wearing their natural hemp skirts when Uncle Ho decreed them impractical for working in the field. However you can still find some villages that wear their white skirts.  Without their white skirts you can easily recognise someone from a White Hmong clan by her black peaked turban.
 The White Hmong of this village no longer wear their white skirts but their peaked black turbans adorned with brightly coloured pom poms identify them as being White Hmong.  The Red Hmong around the Sinho area are usually recognisable by their red wool turbans.
 One of the brightest and most colourful of the Hmong clans are those of the Flower Hmong in the Lao Cai province.  In the past all the embroidery on the jackets and skirts of the Flower Hmong was done by hand - today its bought in ready made machine embroidered panels.
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One of the largest and most diverse of the ethnic minority groups of Vietnam is the Dao (pronounced “Zao”) who settled in the northern border region of Vietnam after leaving China in the 12th and 13th centuries. Like many of the ethnic minority group clans the different Dao clans are often named after the style and colour of their clothing, and even today its not uncommon to see Dao women in full traditional clothing as they go about their day. Dao women's outfits are always made of dark indigo trousers and jackets but the degree of decoration and their different headwear and hairstyles is how you can tell the difference between the clans. Here is a collection of photos taken of some of the beautiful Dao women I've met on my travels.  This beautiful woman is part of the Black Dao clan that live in the area west of Sapa. Unlike their Dao neighbours in Sapa they do not decorate their clothing with embroidery - but always wear a colourful bib of bright pink ribbons, a belt with pink tassels and a distinctive coiled headdress with a silver ornament on top. When she goes to market she usually covers the headdress in a black scarf.  The very regal and beautiful Black Dao woman was on her way home from market. I have seen on previous visits but never taken a photo - I will take this back for her on my next trip.  These gorgeous ladies were so thrilled to have foreign visitors and LOVED having their photo taken. I always make a point of printing out any photos I take and when I visit next time I can give it to them.  This happy lady at the Binh Lu market was thrilled to have me take her photo - I will take it back with me on my next trip - and even if she isn't at the market -there will always be someone that knows and will pass it on to her.  One of the Dao clans that live around the Sinho area are known as the Sewing Dao because of their beautiful embroidery. Their trousers and jackets are adorned with the most beautiful flower motifs and soft maroon silk ruffles. They are instantly recognised by their enormous black fabric turbans.
Today many of the women only wear their turbans in the winter time - but its not uncommon to see the older women wearing them at all times of the year.
 I've met these laides several times at Sinho market where they sell the silk used to make the ruffles on the Sewing Dao outfits - they are always up for a photo and a laugh!  This Black Dao woman lives in the area around Yen Bai. With the opening of the new Hanoi-Lao Cai highway we don't pass through this area these days. The Dao here have the most beautiful embroidered bibs and scarves.  The scarlet headdress of the Red Dao living in the area around Sapa, make them instantly recognisable. Along with their elaborately embroidered jackets and trousers - these woman are one of the standouts when it comes to beautiful minority group costumes.  Traditional dress for most Dao isn't something that's just for show - many women still wear full dress even when working in the fields.
 A Dao mother will make several hats for her child to protect him or her throughout their childhood. The hats are adorned with lots of trinkets which are thought to distract evil spirits from attaching themselves to a child's soul.  Although the Red Dao clans living around 3 hrs west of Sapa near the Chinese border wear similar embroidered jackets and trousers - to their neighbours in Sapa - its their unique high dome red floral turbans (often decorated with lots of silver) that makes them a standout in the crowd.
 The Black Dao from the area around 3 hours north west of Sapa are always looking smart in their black trousers and jackets teamed with crisp white shirts, bright pink tassels and folded black and pink head scarves adorned with pink and black tassels.  Whilst we don't necessarily see the subtle differences in costumes - to the locals this woman is instantly recognised as a Black Dao trader from across the order in China - her headware is slightly different to that of the other Black Dao women at the markets.  On a rainy day - many of the minority groups opt for the very practical conical hat worn by all throughout Vietnam. 
I had seen these beautiful Black Dao women at a number of markets - I thought they'd just forgot their hats! But it turns out that their clan of Dao pride themselves on their beautiful hairstyles - and treat their hair with pig fat to make it pliable and shiny!
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AuthorI started running my textile focussed tours back in 2007. Over the years I've seen some of the most gorgeous textiles made by the most gorgeous women. This blog is a reflection on some of these Archives
April 2017
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