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One of the largest and most diverse of the ethnic minority groups of Vietnam is the Dao (pronounced “Zao”) who settled in the northern border region of Vietnam after leaving China in the 12th and 13th centuries. Like many of the ethnic minority group clans the different Dao clans are often named after the style and colour of their clothing, and even today its not uncommon to see Dao women in full traditional clothing as they go about their day. Dao women's outfits are always made of dark indigo trousers and jackets but the degree of decoration and their different headwear and hairstyles is how you can tell the difference between the clans. Here is a collection of photos taken of some of the beautiful Dao women I've met on my travels.  This beautiful woman is part of the Black Dao clan that live in the area west of Sapa. Unlike their Dao neighbours in Sapa they do not decorate their clothing with embroidery - but always wear a colourful bib of bright pink ribbons, a belt with pink tassels and a distinctive coiled headdress with a silver ornament on top. When she goes to market she usually covers the headdress in a black scarf.  The very regal and beautiful Black Dao woman was on her way home from market. I have seen on previous visits but never taken a photo - I will take this back for her on my next trip.  These gorgeous ladies were so thrilled to have foreign visitors and LOVED having their photo taken. I always make a point of printing out any photos I take and when I visit next time I can give it to them.  This happy lady at the Binh Lu market was thrilled to have me take her photo - I will take it back with me on my next trip - and even if she isn't at the market -there will always be someone that knows and will pass it on to her.  One of the Dao clans that live around the Sinho area are known as the Sewing Dao because of their beautiful embroidery. Their trousers and jackets are adorned with the most beautiful flower motifs and soft maroon silk ruffles. They are instantly recognised by their enormous black fabric turbans.
Today many of the women only wear their turbans in the winter time - but its not uncommon to see the older women wearing them at all times of the year.
 I've met these laides several times at Sinho market where they sell the silk used to make the ruffles on the Sewing Dao outfits - they are always up for a photo and a laugh!  This Black Dao woman lives in the area around Yen Bai. With the opening of the new Hanoi-Lao Cai highway we don't pass through this area these days. The Dao here have the most beautiful embroidered bibs and scarves.  The scarlet headdress of the Red Dao living in the area around Sapa, make them instantly recognisable. Along with their elaborately embroidered jackets and trousers - these woman are one of the standouts when it comes to beautiful minority group costumes.  Traditional dress for most Dao isn't something that's just for show - many women still wear full dress even when working in the fields.
 A Dao mother will make several hats for her child to protect him or her throughout their childhood. The hats are adorned with lots of trinkets which are thought to distract evil spirits from attaching themselves to a child's soul.  Although the Red Dao clans living around 3 hrs west of Sapa near the Chinese border wear similar embroidered jackets and trousers - to their neighbours in Sapa - its their unique high dome red floral turbans (often decorated with lots of silver) that makes them a standout in the crowd.
 The Black Dao from the area around 3 hours north west of Sapa are always looking smart in their black trousers and jackets teamed with crisp white shirts, bright pink tassels and folded black and pink head scarves adorned with pink and black tassels.  Whilst we don't necessarily see the subtle differences in costumes - to the locals this woman is instantly recognised as a Black Dao trader from across the order in China - her headware is slightly different to that of the other Black Dao women at the markets.  On a rainy day - many of the minority groups opt for the very practical conical hat worn by all throughout Vietnam. 
I had seen these beautiful Black Dao women at a number of markets - I thought they'd just forgot their hats! But it turns out that their clan of Dao pride themselves on their beautiful hairstyles - and treat their hair with pig fat to make it pliable and shiny!
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In many ethnic minority cultures across Indochina, embroidery is part of every woman's daily life and through this she perpetuates the identity of her culture, reproducing patterns and symbols which have been developed over generations of women. I love capturing the concentration of these women as you see them stitching away whether they are resting in the fields, on the way to market or sitting chatting with other women or family – embroidery stitches are a way of life.  The Dao have a truly unique and intricate embroidery style. Most girls are taught to embroider from the age of 10 or less.  Hmong embroidery consists of a series of symbols which have been handed down through generations.  Regardless of what she is doing - her embroidery is never far from her side - so she can fit in a few stitches when she gets a break.  Whether its sitting in town waiting for a lift - or at home in the fields embroidery is always at hand.  I met a group of Dao women waiting outside the local school to pick up the kids - it was probably the only free time they'd had all day - but the first thing they did was to get out their embroidery - and catch up on the latest gossip at the same time.  Waiting for a lift home - bike helmet at the ready - there was a spare moment - so out came the embroidery.  The Dao do all of their embroidery from the back - something which we find very hard to do as we like to see our progress as we go!  The TaiDam - or Black Thai learn to embroider at a young age - making an elaborate black headscarf - no two are ever the same but each incorporates traditional styles handed down through generations of women.  Silk tapestry embroideries provide a much needed income for many Vietnamese women. They can turn a photo into an embroidery in no time with precision and detail that most electric embroidery machines would struggle to do.  Whether its waiting for trade at the markets or just trying to get baby to sleep - there's always embroidery to do.  Given many homes in remote areas don't have electricity women still seem to find enough light to carry out their delicate embroidery stitches.  Whether its for personal use or to sell at the market - the Hmong are always busy making new patterns using the same symbols they have done for generations.  Even though synthetic clothing and mass produced machine embroidery is flooding the markets - an Hmong woman is always embroidering a piece for that special article of clothing, a baby carrier or hat's for her children.  Incorporating the old with the new is becoming a new way of embroidering as women create panels of embroidery to incorporate into ready made skirts and jackets from the markets. |
AuthorI started running my textile focussed tours back in 2007. Over the years I've seen some of the most gorgeous textiles made by the most gorgeous women. This blog is a reflection on some of these Archives
April 2017
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